In Rome, from the ancient marble collections and majestic cast-iron giants of the former Centrale Montemartini to the open-view workshop and signature croissants at Casa Manfredi Teatro—a unique itinerary blending industrial archaeology with fine pastry-making.

Within Rome’s urban fabric, along the route connecting the Aventine Hill to the Ostiense district, industrial charm and classical beauty coexist in a unique balance—a novel blend taking shape at the intersection of industrial heritage and the excellence of artisanal pastry-making.

Archaeology is not what is found; it is what is discovered.
(David Hurst Thomas)

Casa Manfredi Teatro: where the art of pastry takes center stage

The walk begins on Via dei Conciatori, just steps away from Piramide and Teatro India, in the vibrant heart of the Ostiense district near Testaccio. This is the home of Casa Manfredi Teatro, a space launched in 2023 as the natural evolution of the original, long-established location on Viale Aventino.

The project stems from the vision of Giorgia Proia—alongside her life and business partner, Daniele Antonelli. With a background in architecture, she has forged a career path that led her to create a true “architecture of taste.”

The workshop: the “industrial” heart of the pastry shop

The centerpiece of Casa Manfredi is a massive stainless-steel workshop that—much like a theater—allows visitors to glimpse the behind-the-scenes creative process.

The interior features exposed concrete, grey resin, and raw finishes, creating an atmosphere that evokes the neighborhood’s former industrial spaces—an area particularly known for landmarks such as the old Gasometer and the former Abattoir, which now hosts cultural events.

This is where Giorgia’s signature creations come to life—including croissants and Italian cornetti, as well as the traditional maritozzo (one of Rome’s most acclaimed and award-winning versions)—paired with a coffee selection curated in collaboration with brands like 1895 By Lavazza to create a carefully crafted match between the brew and the pastry.

Casa Manfredi boasts numerous prestigious collaborations, such as the opening of the Casa Manfredi Corner inside the five-star luxury Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome Hotel.

Centrale Montemartini: a dialogue between marble and cast iron

Continuing along Via Ostiense towards the Tiber, a ten-minute walk brings you to the Centrale Montemartini. It is one of the most evocative exhibition venues of the Capitoline Museums and an extraordinary example of the adaptive reuse of an industrial heritage site.

Inaugurated in 1912 as the city’s first public thermoelectric power plant, the facility was transformed in the late 1990s into a museum space unique in the world. Inside the Engine Hall and the Boiler Hall, Roman-era marble statues—sourced from excavations of Roman horti (gardens), temples in the historic center, and Republican-era Rome—are displayed directly alongside colossal Tosi diesel engines and steam turbines.

Curiously, the idea for this museum emerged in 1997, when the Palazzo dei Conservatori on the Capitoline Hill had to close an entire wing for complex restoration work and the construction of the new Marcus Aurelius Exedra.

To avoid storing hundreds of sculptures in the archives and to keep them accessible to the public, a spacious and unconventional venue was sought—one that, given its success, was subsequently made permanent.

Its Masterpieces: Machines and Gods

Among the unmissable masterpieces at the Centrale Montemartini, the monumental Statue of Athena (1st century AD) stands out, positioned in the center of the Engine Room directly facing the colossal cast-iron engines. Alongside it, visitors are captivated by the magnificent Mosaic of Santa Bibiana—featuring detailed scenes of wild animal hunts—the celebrated and expressive Portrait of Julius Caesar (dating from the Republican era), and the exquisite sculptures from the Horti Lamiani, including the incredibly delicate Seated Girl.

Rounding out the highlights is the pediment of the Temple of Apollo Sosianus, which depicts the epic battle of the Amazonomachy and incorporates original Greek sculptures from the 5th century BC.

A contrast—between the white of marble and the matte black of industrial cast iron—that romantically highlights the beauty of both.

The Secret

The true secret behind Giorgia Proia’s work is rooted in her first culinary love: not pastry dough, but the ice cream cone. It was the world of cold-temperature techniques—studied alongside master Angelo Grasso and later revolutionized with Stefano Ferrara—that gave her an almost engineering-like grasp of structures, emulsions, and temperatures. This deep understanding of temperature control remains crucial in her workshop today: the creaminess and perfect balance she brings to her artisanal gelato serve as the key to precisely managing butter temperatures and the maturation times of complex, leavened doughs, transforming an insight born of cold-temperature expertise into the secret behind the exquisite texture of her iconic croissants.

Useful Info

Casa Manfredi
Via dei Conciatori 5
00154 Roma
Tel. 06 9760 5892

Open from morning until lunch
Croissants and pastries: €2.50 – €4.50
Coffee and specialty coffee: €1.50 – €5.00

Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106
00154 Roma
Tel. +39 06 0608

Full-price ticket: €15; for other offers, please visit the website